The Most Popular of Beehives

There is little doubt that when most people think of a beehive they think of a Langstroth, knowingly or otherwise. They might have never have heard that name and have no sense of its history, but the Langstroth is well-established as the most iconic of beehive designs, adorning many a photo of the countryside on a hot summer day.

The Langstroth has defied the relentless march of so-called progress for over 150 years, by retaining its position as the most common beehive. This is not due to beekeepers being ignorant of new and fancy developments in "beehive technology". Rather, the Langstroth retains its position thanks to one simple truth - it does what it attempts to do very well indeed!

An important note about this article. The intent of this article is to describe the "what" - the design and common components of the Langstroth box. For each option the Langstroth offers, the beekeeper faces a decision. An example is the use of deep, medium or shallow boxes (described below). That they are available is described below, but that still leaves the decision of  why to use each of these. Issues such as this (the "why") will be covered in separate articles. This article is intended to position you to understand the decisions you will need to make later.

Langstroth BeehiveDesign Overview

The Langstroth can be considered in three main sections (with the purpose of each component discussed below).

  • Lower section: The base on which the boxes rest includes a bottom board, featuring an entrance through which bees can come and go. The whole hive is often placed on a purpose-built hive stand, although other ad-hoc options exist too.
  • Boxes: This is where the action happens inside the hive. Brood, honey, pollen, propolis and, of course, bees are all housed inside one or more boxes. This is what gives the Langstroth its expansibility , as the beekeeper adds new boxes to support the growth of the colony.
  • Upper section: The top of the hive comprises an inner cover, sitting on top of the uppermost box, plus a top cover to cap the entire structure.

Individual Components

Bottom Board

The bottom board is the structure that takes the full weight of the hive and incorporates the entrance through which bees come and go. There are a few different types of bottom board available, but they are either a solid bottom board or screened bottom board. The latter has features useful in assessing whether mites are a problem in the hive and we will be looking at this in some detail in Part 3 : A Healthy Beehive.

canstockphoto28591456

Boxes

The use of a variable number of boxes in the Langstroth lend this hive design a tremendous expansibility. It is simple and easy to add another box on top of the existing ones, thus adding considerable volume to your bee's living quarters.

Due to the size of the boxes and the ease with which new ones can be added, the Langstroth offers the highest honey yield of the three main types of beehive.

Although the Langstroth is something of a standard, you still have many options when it comes to box size, across two dimensions.

Depth

The Langstroth boxes use the same length and width (pending the number of frames they accept - see below). A traditional box is 16" wide by 19 7/8" long. However, boxes of three different depths are available:

  • Deep: 9 5/8"
  • Medium: 6 5/8"
  • Shallow: 5 7/8"

For example, a deep box has the dimensions 16" x 19 7/8" x 9 5/8".

We will look at the use of each size of box elsewhere, but the lower brood box (where bees raise new brood) is typically a deep or medium box.

Frames

How hard will it be to move my hive?
A 10 frame Langstroth can get heavy, especially when full of beautiful honey! In fact, as you conduct hive inspections you will be lifting these boxes off and back on to your hive on a reasonably frequently.

A fully laden 10 frame deep box can weigh around 80 lbs! That's a lot of heavy-duty lifting. For this reason, deep boxes are usually used for brood and not honey. Even medium boxes can be rather heavy, though (around 50 lbs, with honey).

For the non-commercial beekeeper, handling this weight is often difficult to justify, especially for the older or less mobile beekeeper. Therefore, a common option is to use 8 frame boxes. This reduces the width of the box from 16" to 14" and lowers the weight of the box considerably.

Apart from reduced weight and capacity, there is little practical difference between 8 and 10 frame Langstroth beehives. Indeed, because the length of the boxes remains the same (19 7/8"), the frames themselves are interchangeable across 8 and 10 frame boxes.

Frames and FoundationWarre Boxes

Within each box, the beekeeper places frames (these are often called "supers"). As we have seen, the Langstroth box supports either 8 or 10 frames. Typically - though not always each frame includes foundation, generally with a wax coating.

A configuration with a 10 frame box, with frames and foundation, represents the most common in Langstroth hives. However, increasing interest in natural beekeeping means more beekeepers are using foundationless frames, which allow the bees to create their own foundation.

Inspecting a frame

Inner Cover

The inner cover is placed on top of the uppermost box. The inner cover sometimes features a small gap, which provides an upper entrance/exit for the bees, in addition to the entrance on the bottom board. Inner covers also feature a hole, which is important when using a feeder (yes, more on feeders in a separate article!).

Homemade bee feederA common use is to place the inner cover on top of the uppermost box, a feeder on top of the inner cover (resting over the inner cover's hole) and then an additional box around the feeder, just to protect it from the elements.

Top Cover

The top cover (sometimes called an outer cover) goes on top! Its purpose is very obvious, namely to cover the beehive and protect it from the elements.

A common design is called a "telescoping top cover", since it overlaps the inner cover and hangs down around its edges. This helps keep water from dripping into gaps at the top of the hive.

Accessories

Beyond the core components of the hive, many beekeepers add one or more options. Here are a few of the more common ones.

New hiveStand

In most scenarios, a hive stand is recommended and justified. It has a number of benefits, including raising the hive to a more manageable level for the beekeeper, reducing the chance of of damp coming from the ground and making it more difficult for pests to access the hive.

The stand can be a very home-made affair! Many beekeepers use cement blocks or some other sturdy, but readily available, materials. However, there are many excellent commercial products available, offering other benefits.

One example, is the Ultimate Hive Stand, which is purpose-built for the job, very stable and incorporates frame holders for use during an inspection.

The bottom line is that for many beekeepers it is very important to raise the hive off the ground, whether through their own solution or via a commercial product.

Beehives in an apiary

Entrance Reducer

The entrance reducer is a highly sophisticated piece of equipment (OK, it's basically a piece of wood!) is valuable when first establishing a colony. A small colony will be at a disadvantage if it has to defend the entrance of the hive from robber bees. As the colony becomes more established, having to defend the full expanse of the hive entrance could well prove beyond the capabilities of the young colony.

How to entrance reducers help the hive?
An entrance reducer simply blocks a portion of the entrance, thus reducing the area the bees need to defend. As the colony establishes itself it becomes more capable of defending the entrance.

While the advantages are clear, the disadvantage is that things can get a little crowded, at least when the entrance reducer is at its most restrictive gap.

Queen Excluder

Beekeepers have a knack for naming things! The aforementioned entrance reducer, reduces the entrance. Likewise, the queen excluder excludes the queen! But what is it?

A grid of either metal or plastic is placed on top of the uppermost box in which the queen is to be "allowed". The holes in the grid are just large enough to allow worker and drone bees through, but too small for the queen to pass through. Therefore, the queen is.... excluded (from the boxes above the grid).

There are various philosophies on the use of queen excluders and many beekeepers simply never use them. In fact, because they do slow down worker bees - those very bees that are creating honey! - the queen excluder is are sometimes mischievously called a "honey excluder".

We will cover the use or non-use of a queen excluder in a separate article but PerfectBee does not feel they are justified in the first year of a hive, as you wish to make life as easy as possible for your bees. Here's a video that illustrates how this can at least slow down your bees.

Product Choices

As with many aspects of beekeeping, there are numerous options available when choosing a Langstroth hive. These relate to longevity, handling, strength, aesthetics, costs and other factors.

Western Red Cedar Langstroth Hive
Western Red Cedar Langstroth Beehive

Longevity

You have several choices of wood when selecting a Langstroth, each with different characteristics of durability and longevity.

The most popular wood used for Langstroth hives today is pine. This is a perfectly effective choice but, since it is not resistant to rot, it is highly advisable to paint pine hives, to increase their longevity against the elements. Typically, hives are painted with a light color, which helps keep the hive cooler in hot weather.

Western Red Cedar is considered an upgraded choice of wood, for a number of reasons, including better resistance to rotting. This means that it is not so important to paint a Western Red Cedar beehive, allowing for a more natural look. It is quite common to treat with Tung Oil, just to offer a layer of protection and to bring out the natural wood grain.

Ease of Handling

The Langstroth is well-respected as a hive offering the potential for a good deal of honey. With that, though, comes weight, as discussed above.

Aside from considering 8 frame boxes, another weight-reduction choice is Western Red Cedar, which is lighter than pine. This choice of a lighter wood can ease the effort involved considerably during a hive inspection.

Aesthetics

This is obviously somewhat more subjective, but if you prefer a natural wood look for your hive then Western Red Cedar has the advantage that it need not be painted. In fact, the application of Tung Oil brings out the wood grain in a quite beautiful way.

By comparison, a coat or two of paint on a pine hive leaves a very different look to the finished hive.

Cost

Pine is something of a standard for Langstroth hives and this results in very economically-priced beehives and boxes. For those on a tight budget, pine is a good option.

Western Red Cedar, by comparison, has the advantages of not needing to be painted, looking more attractive, offers greater longevity and a lower weight. But, as with any premium product, with these advantages do come at a higher price.

It should be noted that, assuming the visual look of the final hive is not a priority, it is feasible to start with a cedar beehive and then add boxes made with either pine or cedar.

Lansgroth Hives from PerfectBee

The PerfectBee Premium Collection of beehives features three choices of wood (Sugar Pine, Douglas Fir and Western Red Cedar), each from FSC-certified sustainable sources. This means they originate from forests strictly audited to promote growth, protect ecosystems, protect indigenous rights, support surrounding communities and prohibit illegal logging.

We also offer a full range of economical pine choices. See our full range of Langstroth hives, boxes and accessories.

Summary

Pros

The Langstroth design has a number of important benefits, including:

  • Expandability: The use of boxes allows the beekeeper to easily extend the beehive by adding space
  • Interchangeability: The Langstroth standard defines the dimensions of each component, with manufacturers worldwide following these. It is therefore not unusual to build a beehive with components or options from various suppliers
  • Price: This consistency across manufacturers bring economy of scale and this has brought prices of Langstroth hives down to very reasonable levels
  • Familiarity: Visit any beekeeping club and you will find those who use the Langstroth, meaning the sharing of information and opinion is assured
  • Honey Yield: Of the three main types of beehive, the Langstroth can generate the highest honey yield, due to its sheer dimensions as well as the option to add boxes easier

Cons

With these benefits come some challenges:

  • Weight of boxes: Even 8 frame boxes can be heavy when full of honey, which can be challenging to some beekeepers
  • More cumbersome inspections: When you need to check the brood box, you potentially have a lot of lifting to do (removing and replacing all boxes on top of the box you wish to inspect). This is not merely a weight issue. If you have a brood box beneath two boxes you have to lift boxes four times (twice to remove, twice to replace).
  • Aesthetics: Although this is obviously subjective, some consider the Langstroth design to be less easy on the eye

9 thoughts on “A Detailed Look at the Langstroth Beehive”

  1. Lynn Downing

    I too would like to know about the life expectancy of the Langstroth Hive — assuming it’s painted pine.

    Also, are there any pros to using a queen excluder other than to keep the queen in the brood chamber?

    Thank you again for a great presentation!

    1. Queen excluders keep the queen out of the honey supers. You don’t want the queen laying in the honey supers because it makes for a mess when extracting honey. They are not needed because once the super is full of honey, the queen will not cross the frames of honey to get to the other supers.
      Langstroth hives can last a lifetime if taken care of. They should be treated with two coats of oil based primer and two coats of paint. after that repainted about every two years depending on the weather exposure.

  2. Any good source for expected life of the equipment? Is 20 years a good expectation for the useful life of the actual wooden ware?

  3. Trying to figure out whether the Lanstroth feeder box goes right on top of the box and frames or if the hive cover goes under it with the telescoping top on the feeder box.

  4. The weight is definitely a consideration but I definitely am even more convinced that this is the type of hive that I want for my first hive.

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